Every derby racer wants to know what is the best and fastest Pinewood Derby lubrication.

The best lubrication may or may not be legal for any particular race.  The BSA does not have a standard set of rules that must be followed by all scout packs.  So, lubrications rules may vary from one pack to another.

The fastest lubrication for a Pinewood Derby car is a super thin oil called Krytox GPL 100.  This is a super slick oil developed and produced by DuPont.  This is a highly-refined synthetic thin-film lubricant with an ultra-low viscosity. When Krytox is properly applied it easily outperforms any dry lubrication including graphite.

Krytox is also very kind to your nice paint job. Graphite will permanently stain a light color paint job but Krytox will not.

If using oil such as Krytox: Less is Best… Place two small drops on the axle shaft.  Place the axle in the wheel bore and spin the wheel several times.  Remove wheel.  Wipe off excess oil from the axle.

The problem is that many pack rules do not allow any type of liquid lubrication. So that forces you to use a dry lubricant like graphite.  There is a huge variety of Pinewood Derby graphite lubricants on the market today.  Its difficult to make an inelegant choice on what graphite to use.  Different graphites come in various particle sizes and some contain additives such as molybdenum.

An example of a quality 100% pure graphite is Monkey Dust.  This is a secret formula of natural and pure industrial grade graphite powders that create a tremendously low coefficient of friction.  The Monkey Dust micro-fine graphite particles are designed with special properties allowing them to form a super slick dry film that adhere to wheels and axles to significantly diminish friction. The results are longer lasting graphite and a much greater speeds.

This specially formulated graphite has been used by thousands of Pinewood Derby racers nation wide… and Monkey Dust consistently brings cars home in first place.

On the other hand, a quality graphite containing performance additives is DerbyMax Graphite with Molybdenum.  This lubricant consists of a fine, specially ground formula prepared with molybdenum. The Molybdenum stabilizer has a very low coefficient of friction and when mixed in the correct proportions enhance the lubricating effects of the graphite.  Many tests have proven DerbyMax Graphite with Molybdenum to be the best available.

If using graphite: More is Best… Pack the wheel bore with graphite.  Place the axle in the wheel bore and spin the wheel several times.  Then pack the wheel bore with graphite again. Reinstall the axle and mount the axles wheel on the car.

So, which graphite is best? Is molybdenum an important additive to have?  Tests are unclear.  Many racers are convinced that a graphite fortified with molybdenum outperforms any other dry lubricant.  Others can produce test results that show the opposite.  When it comes down to it just use a good lubrication that you feel confident with.  Monkey Dust and DerbyMax Graphite are both excellent choices.

1. Minimize friction.

This is unquestionably the most important step for designing a faster Pinewood Derby car. An increase in friction could slow down your car enough to prevent you from winning. In particular, check where the wheels contact the axle, the body of the car, and the track’s center guide rail. These are the most important areas for decreasing friction.

2. Add weight whenever necessary.

The key is for your car to weigh as closely to the weight limit as possible, but without exceeding it. Create ways to add weight to your car that you can easily remove on the day of the Pinewood Derby. This can include items such as coins, screws, and so on.

3. Maintain straight axles and wheels.

This will prevent your wheels from sliding, and from contacting the center guide rail. The process begins before you start shaping the car. In particular, the time to make straight wholes for the car’s axles is before you start shaping the car–rather than afterwards. One method for creating axle holes that are straight is to use a drill press to pre-drill them.

4. Add lubricant to the wheels.

Various types of derby car lubricants are available on the market, so do some experimenting until you find one that suits you. Determine which lubricants are permitted, and then learn which one you’re most satisfied with.

Derby Monkey Axel Lube Kit

5. Keep the car off the center guide rail.

This is crucial, as contact with the center guide rail could actually halt your car. There should be enough clearance underneath the car, to avoid contact with the center guide rail. Another way to accomplish that goal is to ensure that the wheels aren’t too close together. If your car’s design is particularly innovative, then you should do some research to determine if it will fit properly onto the track.

6. Do a test run.

You can experiment to determine where you need to improve the car’s speed. Roll the car straight down a long board with a minimum incline. Keep making minor adjustments until the car rolls down the board smoothly and speedily.

7. Refine the wheels.

The wheels’ casting process could cause abnormalities on your wheels. Remove them, and then use emery paper to smooth out the wheels.

8. Polish the car’s axles.

This process is most effective if another person can help you. One person should operate the drill, while the other person should use (wet) emery paper to polish the axle. It’s important to keep the emery paper constantly moving. You should also polish the interior of the axle head, and the axle shaft.

If you want your Pinewood Derby car to be a speed demon, then you’ll need to take steps to make your car faster. These are some of the most effective ways to reach that goal-and the finish line faster.

Visit our retail site at www.DerbyMonkeyGarage.com to view our complete collection of Pinewood Derby Car Designs, Templates, Accessories, and More.

Krytox

The Derby Monkey Garage uses DuPont Krytox® GPL 100 whenever oil is allowed. This is a highly-refined synthetic thin-film lubricant with an ultra-low viscosity. When this stuff is properly applied it equals or outperforms any dry lubricant on the market including graphite. Krytox is much easier and faster to apply than graphite.

As a matter of fact, Pinewood Derbies should adopt a Krytox only policy. When properly applied, Krytox is much cleaner and leaves no trace on the tracks.

This stuff is also perfect for your nice paint job. Graphite will stain and ruin a light color paint job but Krytox will not.

Monkey Dust

Monkey Dust is a unique formula of natural and pure industrial grade graphite powders that create an extremely low coefficient of friction. The graphite particles that make up Monkey Dust are milled to a minute 325 mesh which makes it the silkiest graphite on the market.

Hob-E-Lube

Hob-E-Lube consists of a fine, specially ground formula fortified with Molybdenum. The Molybdenum additive has a very low coefficient of friction and when mixed in the proper proportions boost the lubricating effects of the graphite. Many tests have proven Hob-E-Lube to be the best available.

How to Properly Use Graphite

With graphite, too much is never enough. Forget what your mother told you… you can be as wasteful as you want. This stuff is not expensive. Using too little graphite is another kiss of death.

It is very important that you first treat the axles with graphite. This is an often overlooked procedure and most experts agree that this is an extremely important process. The graphite must be properly worked into the axle. No matter how fine you polish the axle shaft there will still be microscopic scratches that will ad fiction. By working in the graphite, it fills the minute scratches and helps protect against this unwanted abrasion. The Derby Monkey Axle Treating Cradle is an excellent tool for thoroughly treating axles.

Treating the Wheels

–Extra Tip: When inserting the axle, make sure that the axle tip does not rub against the inside of the hub wall. This will place scratches on the surface that you have worked so hard to polish. These new scratches will create unwanted friction.–

You can’t just squirt a little graphite in the hub and that’s it. You must pack the graphite tightly in the hub until the hub is completely packed full of graphite. Again, don’t worry about being wasteful.

After the hub is packed, carefully insert the axle in the wheel. A lot of the graphite will be pushed out of the other side of the hub but that’s OK. Spin the wheel several times on the axle to help seat the graphite. Graphite has a break-in period of 4 to 6 runs so always spin the wheels multiple times. Then mount the wheel and axle on the car. Be careful so that you don’t get graphite on your nice paint job.

–Extra Tip: Keep your graphite and lubed car in a dry place. High humidity will actually dampen the graphite causing it to gunk-up and decrease your speed.–

Now, roll the car back and forth on a clean flat surface. If you have a test track, make 3 or 4 practice runs. This further helps to seat the graphite. Then remove the wheels and start the wheel treatment process all over again.

Extra Tip: Other parts to consider lubing with graphite are:
• The car body where the hub rubs
• The inside of the wheel hub The inside of the wheel edge
• The wheel surface
• Every little bit helps.
After the last wheel lube, you car will need what is comparable with 5 practice runs to break-in the graphite.

Wipe the car down and remove as much loose graphite as possible from the body and outsides of the wheels so that it won’t get on the track. Then put the car away and don’t touch until check-in time.

During the race the wheel hubs will rub on the axles. This unwanted friction contact cannot be avoided.  However, if you have properly repaired and polished your axles and hub bores then this friction is reduced. But even that is not enough.

We must thoroughly lubricate all friction points before putting on the wheels.  Your scout rules will probably require that you use a dry lube.  If so, use quality graphite, such as Monkey Dust or Hob-E-Lube. If, on the other hand, your rules allow for the use of oil then you should consider taking advantage of that by using a super lubricant like NyOil or Krytox.

Krytox

The Derby Monkey Garage uses DuPont Krytox® GPL 100 whenever oil is allowed.  This is a highly-refined synthetic thin-film lubricant with an ultra-low viscosity. When this stuff is properly applied it equals or outperforms any dry lubricant on the market including graphite. Krytox is much easier and faster to apply than graphite.

It is also almost undetectable by derby officials.  As a matter of fact, Pinewood Derbies should adopt a Krytox only policy.  When properly applied, Krytox is much cleaner and leaves no trace on the tracks.

This stuff is also perfect for your nice paint job. Graphite will stain and ruin a light color paint job but Krytox will not.

Monkey Dust

Monkey Dust is a unique formula of natural and pure industrial grade graphite powders that create an extremely low coefficient of friction.  The graphite particles that make up Monkey Dust are milled to a minute 325 mesh which makes it the silkiest graphite on the market.

Hob-E-Lube

Hob-E-Lube consists of a fine, specially ground formula fortified with Molybdenum. The Molybdenum additive has a very low coefficient of friction and when mixed in the proper proportions boost the lubricating effects of the graphite.  Many tests have proven Hob-E-Lube to be the best available.

How to Properly Use Graphite

With graphite, too much is never enough.  Forget what your mother told you… you can be as wasteful as you want.  This stuff is not expensive.  Using too little graphite is another kiss of death.

It is very important that you first treat the axles with graphite.  This is an often overlooked procedure and most experts agree that this is an extremely important process.  The graphite must be properly worked into the axle.  No matter how fine you polish the axle shaft there will still be microscopic scratches that will ad fiction.  By working in the graphite, it fills the minute scratches and helps protect against this unwanted abrasion. The Derby Monkey Axle Lube Kit is an excellent tool for thoroughly treating axles.

Treating the Wheels

You can’t just squirt a little graphite in the hub and that’s it.  You must pack the graphite tightly in the hub until the hub is completely packed full of graphite.  Again, don’t worry about being wasteful.

After the hub is packed, carefully insert the axle in the wheel.  A lot of the graphite will be pushed out of the other side of the hub but that’s OK. Spin the wheel several times on the axle to help seat the graphite. Graphite has a break-in period of 4 to 6 runs so always spin the wheels multiple times.  Then mount the wheel and axle on the car.  Be careful so that you don’t get graphite on your nice paint job.

Now, roll the car back and forth on a clean flat surface.  If you have a test track, make 3 or 4 practice runs.  This further helps to seat the graphite.  Then remove the wheels and start the wheel treatment process all over again.

After the last wheel lube, you car will need what is comparable with 5 practice runs to break-in the graphite.

Wipe the car down and remove as much loose graphite as possible from the body and outsides of the wheels so that it won’t get on the track. Then put the car away and don’t touch until check-in time.

Extra Tip:  When inserting the axle, make sure that the axle tip does not rub against the inside of the hub wall.  This will place scratches on the surface that you have worked so hard to polish.  These new scratches will create unwanted friction.

Extra Tip:  Keep your graphite and lubed car in a dry place.  High humidity will actually dampen the graphite causing it to gunk-up and decrease your speed.

Extra Tip:  Other parts to consider lubing with graphite are:

The car body where the hub rubs

The inside of the wheel hub

The inside of the wheel edge

The wheel surface

See the complete line of Derby Monkey lubrication product here.

Monkey Dust