1.Insert an axle into the chuck of a drill, and use a file to remove the burr under the nail head, and any crimp marks on the axle shaft.
2.With a marking pen, make a mark on the edge of the axle head.
3.Fully insert the axle – point first – into the Pro-Axle Press. Rotate the axle head such that the mark is located at the top (12 o’clock), and close the press.
4.Place the Pro-Axle Press on a solid surface, hold it in place, and strike the top of the press 4-6 times with a hammer. Don’t strike too hard – medium strikes are fine.
5.Open the press and repeat steps 3 and 4 with the mark at the 4 o’clock position
6.Open the press and repeat steps 3 and 4 with the mark at the 8 o’clock position
7.After the last strike at the 8 o’clock position, lay the press on its back (axle head upward) and strike the axle head 2-4 times. This ensures that the axle head is square to the axle shaft.
8.Repeat for the other three axles, and then polish the axles to the desired finish.
Racer’s Tip: To accurately bend an axle for alignment or for a raised wheel, insert the axle into the Pro-Axle Press with the head extended 3/8 inch from the tool. Place the Pro-Axle Press in a clamp or vise. Gently tap the axle with the hammer until the desired bend is achieved.

Good luck racer
Racer X

The narrow shaft of the Pro-Mandrel is intended for use in a Dremel-like tool,or a drill with a small chuck. When mounting the Pro-Mandrel in a standard drill,drill press,or lathe,fasten the chuck around the wide portion of the shaft.

The face of the Pro-Mandrel has a step-down to allow mounting BSA wheels with the spokes facing towards the mandrel. This simplifies polishing the inside edge of the wheel.

The Pro-Mandrel screw has a beveled face to ensure that the wheel is centered on the mandrel screw. For best results,wiggle the wheel slightly as the screw is tightened.

The Pro-Mandrel screw is intended to be hand tightened. Tighten until the wheel is firmly in place,but do not over tighten as the wheel could be damaged. This is especially important for wheels made with a softer plastic, such as those supplied by Awana.

Racer’s Tip: Square the Wheel Hub first with the Pro Hub Tool For greater accuracy

Good luck racer
Racer X

1.Test fit the Pro-Body tool on the bottom of the block with the two “ears” positioned on the sides of the block. If the tool will not fit onto the block, use coarse grit sandpaper to reduce the width of the block until the tool fits snuggly. If the tool is loose,tighten the fit by placing a piece of paper-folded as needed between one ear of tool and the block.

 
To create Pilot Holes in Axle Slots

1.Use a square to draw a straight line on one side of the car starting at the middle of the Axle slot, and extending to the top of the car. (Or measure the distance from one end of the block to the middle of an axle slot and transfer that measurement to the top-side of the block. Then use a ruler to draw a line from that measurement to the center of the axle slot).
2.Repeat step 1 for the other slot.

To Create New Axle Holes

1.Measure and mark the desired position of the new axle holes on one side of the block. Extend the mark from the bottom of the block to the top of the block using a square (0r measure and mark near the bottom of the block and near the top of the block, and then join
the line with a pencil and ruler). Holes for extended wheelbase are typically positioned 5/8″ from the end of the block.
2.Repeat step 1 for the other end of the block.

Position the Tool

 
1.Position the tool on the bottom of the car with two “ears” on the sides of the block. Align the index mark with the line on the block. Clamp
the tool in place.
2.Hold the block firmly,position the drill bit in the hole,and slowly drill ¾” into the block.
3.Without releasing the clamp,turn the tool and block over,and drill the second hole.
4.Repeat steps 4 to5 for the other 2 holes.

 
Good luck racer
Racer X